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The average temperature in Greece in November is 18 Celsius. During our first 2 weeks here, it was in the low to mid-20s, very pleasant indeed, and we joined others in lolling about on the beach and Mick went swimming nearly every day. Recalling that average, we should not be surprised that the temperature is now 17-18 Celsius and can feel quite parky, especially first thing in the morning. Nevertheless, it remains sunny, sometimes very sunny, and it is a great delight to eat our meals out on the terrace. We are no longer in shirt-sleeves but in jerseys or jackets, along with sunglasses or hats with big brims!

We have tried a new walk which goes towards the next village (the one we believe our cleaner lives in) which consists mainly of a concrete path about 2 metres wide some distance above sea level and with a minimal fence on the seaward side, which offers views from and around the next bit of the bay along from Stoupa. A determined person could clamber over or through the fence and climb down into the scrubland below, which includes large cactuses and deep clefts in the few short metres to the sea. I remember that a lot of the coastal settlements here have little or no beach - the coast shelves away deeply and you go straight from path to boat or swimming - so I am glad Stoupa has a more conventional layout. It is, however, a long way from anywhere, and many of the local shops, cafes or private houses are clearly closed up for the winter and empty of people.

Not many people are bathing or sunbathing now but we do see maybe 20 or 25 people over the course of a day, strolling along the front, popping into the places which still serve coffee, chocolate and cakes - which they have to consume on one of the benches by the sand - or else, later on, walking or driving to the handful of places which do a decent takeout. There is a vegetable lorry, run by locals, which comes round most days with fresh fruit and veg - you can ask them to call at your door if you want regular service - and a man who parks outside the main bar (now just takeout) most afternoons, with assorted birds tethered in a cage at the back of his van. Not clear whether you buy them for pets (!!!) or for dinner - and ifso, who kills them. I have decided that if I want chicken souvlaki I am perfectly content to let someone else carry out all the necessary tasks.

We originally booked our travel with Easyjet, who then cancelled our flight home: they will do no more flights to or from Greece till next April. Mick found a suitable (but far more expensive) alternative, using Air France (but we have insurance so shouldn't be a worry....) who then went awfully silent. We were getting used to the idea that we would be sadly stranded here for weeks: landlady wouldn't mind, as the original American tenants of this apartment had booked for 2 months and were then prevented from coming by Covid, and as we are pensioners we don't have jobs to rush back to. However, Air France have now confirmed our flights home on Monday 30 November via Paris. Of course, we will fly straight into quarantine, but we weren't expecting a giddy social round this year. Mick is in regular communication with our heating system at home and it appears that the air-source heat-pump is working brilliantly and is on standby to bring the temperature upto a suitable level for late November as soon as he says the word. Great stuff!

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